March 12, 2013

Adventure.

Living with a surfer who has not surfed for over 2 months is a hard task.  I love surfing, I love the ocean, I love the vans, I love the boards, I love the wave searching and I even love the wetsuits but I’m not sure I’ll ever love surfing as much as he does.  It’s part of who he is and part of the reason I love surfing so much.  We live close to the ocean, but we don’t live close to good waves so we have to travel.  We took a trip to Peniche, Portugal for the second time, we met up with friends who have just started surfing.  It’s infectious to be around people who have just discovered surfing and all the joys it brings to your life, surfing with old friends for the first time is amazing.  We had mixed conditions but we surfed everyday, Baleal is a small town full of visiting surfers, it’s quiet, friendly and refreshing.  I think we’ll be back next year too. 

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